Stage 5 - From Iringa to Lllongwe

Entering the southern highlands of Tanzania, I was greeted by a yellow carpet of sunflowers, in field after field, making the cycling extremely pleasant for four days. Ask any cyclist what their dream day on a bike consists of and they will probably agree to a 30 mile descent with a gentle tailwind, through banana and tea plantations, and a stunning view of Lake Malawi at the end of it. I was lucky enough to have just that sort of day to complete three very enjoyable weeks in friendly Tanzania.

Malawi, the sixth country of the trip, is among the world’s poorest nations. That doesn’t stop the people offering a cheery welcome and a willingness to please. Unfortunately it does mean that in the rural areas, food and commodities are in short supply. I found a number of restaurants, kitted out with tables and chairs, counters, table cloths, decorations and extensive menus, but not the one essential for a restaurant – food. I had to get creative with a packet of biscuits and a loaf of bread to create an original sandwich!

My bicycle is feeling the strain. On dirt roads in Tanzania, the rear rack snapped clean in two. I have acquired a new bag for the front of the bike. One of the group unfortunately was hit by a passing truck, breaking his elbow, which caused me to rethink the safety aspect of my bike set up. I took the plunge, and bought a huge African mirror which is now fastened to my handlebars, giving me a perfect view to the rear and lots of street cred with the locals! And, folks, the very sad news is, that with 3,728 miles on the clock, my bicycle suffered a puncture! Inevitably it was on a smooth paved road, after bearing up so well to the rocks and sand of Kenya….

Arriving in Lilongwe, the group found that we had to share the city with a guest. Madonna is in town, along with dozens of paparazzi. She is trying to adopt her second Malawian child and the papers are as full of the story as the hotels are full of her entourage. Strangely, she is not booked into the Mubeyu Campsite along with 50 grubby cyclists. Can’t think why not…..

This has been a short section, named after the potent local brew – Malawi Gin. Hills have been the order of the day, and even the afternoon rains have not been able to spoil 649 miles of glorious scenic cycling.