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Note: I completed this tour with a companion in the last three weeks of
March. This is clearly still the low season in Portugal, and accommodation
prices and availability reflect this. Where I quote a price for accommodation,
it is for two people in a twin room with breakfast. The prices for use of a twin
room by one person generally seemed to be about 20% lower.
For details of distances and time taken to ride each day, click on “Travelogue”
from the menu above.
Day One - Tuesday 13th March 2007
The route begins in the Galician city of Santiago de Compostela. It’s a day for
sightseeing rather than cycling. From the small airport, west of the city, there
are two roads into town, but only the old road, the N 634 is suitable for
cyclists. It is well signposted off the first roundabout out of the airport.
Sunset on the cobbled streets of Santiago
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13 km of gently rolling hills brings you into the old city of
Santiago, now designated as a UNESCO world heritage site, and to an
array of winding cobbled streets and historic buildings. Make the most
of your day here by first visiting the Tourist Information Office for
city maps and guides, as well as advice on the best accommodation
options. The wonderful Parador, Los Reis Catolicos, will set you back
around £170 for 2 people; but I can also recommend the San Clemente, a
clean and friendly Pension, with secure courtyard to store bicycles, for
£40.
In the evening, take a stroll across the main square – the Obradoiro to
see the city by twilight, and enjoy a meal in one of the many
restaurants |
Day Two - Wednesday 14th March 2007
Santiago de Compostela to Pontevedra
Take the A543 out of Santiago, down a sweeping hill past the new convention
centre in the direction of Noia. At Urdilde, a hamlet with a hotel for a coffee
stop, take the unmarked road opposite the hotel to Padron. Ride the hairpins
down to the Rio Ulla and its estuary into the Atlantic Ocean. Cross the river on
the busy N550 and 2 km later take a right to Vilagarcia.
Vilagarcia is a coastal town, but the beach area is 3km before your come into
town, and is the best place to stop for lunch. The road from Vilagarcia to
Pontevedra was surprisingly busy for a weekday in March, but it mostly had a
shoulder to keep cyclists away from the main traffic. The climb to Meis is
countered by a wonderful descent to Pontevedra. Head for the old town centre
where there are a small number of hotels to choose from.
Day Three - Thursday 15th March 2007
Pontevedra to A Caniza
Today is a day of climbing, but the PO 532 road through Ponte
Caldelas to A Caniza is smooth and broad with shoulders and light
traffic. The scenery gets better all day, the sierras stunning and the
meadows covered in yellow gorse. Take plenty of water – even in March
the sun was hot and there are stretches of road with nowhere to
replenish food or drink. Fall gratefully into one of the café bars in
the village of Maceira for the biggest ever tortilla sandwich – on a
whole baguette!
Then you begin the 7km climb of the Puerto de Moncelos – a relentless
push up to 800 meters. The same distance downhill to A Caniza makes a
great end to the day’s riding. There are two good standard hotels in
town, with the O Pozo getting my recommendation – bed and breakfast for
two is only £28 and it has a decent restaurant attached. |
The colours of spring
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Day Four - Friday 16th March 2007
A Caniza to Xinzo de Limia
Mist over the Rio Minho
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Wrap up warm – whatever the season. The morning starts with a fast
and steep descent to Cortegada, a village on the Rio Mino. In March, the
valley was misty and mysterious, allowing only glimpses of the river,
snaking through the mist. Coffee can be had in Cortegada, which also has
a hotel – the Buena Vista.
A new road is being built around Cortegada, but take the old road in
and out of town – you’ll find it wonderfully empty. It is the OU 531 and
climbs and falls for some 28 km before arriving in Celenova, which is a
well stocked town, for lunch.
Out of Celanova, continue on the same road and select your lowest gear
for the 11km and 7% climb of the Alto do Furriolo. From the top it is a
well-earned descent of 230 meters in15 km, across the Rio Limia and into
the small town of Xinzo for the night. The Hotel Xinzo is great value,
friendly and modern with a local restaurant attached. |
Day Five - Saturday 17th March 2007
Xinzo De Limia to Chaves
After three days in Spain, you cross the border to Portugal today. The obvious
route on the map would appear to be the N525, but don’t be tempted that way.
There is a tranquil, rural route as follows:
| Take the main high
street out of Xinzo and keep an eye out for a right turn onto the OU
304, across the river. It is signposted for Portugal 20km. The long flat
run to the hamlet of Baltar can lull you into a false sense of security,
but yes, those mountains ahead are high and yes, you do have to cross
them. The road climbs for 6km at 8% and the prevailing wind blows onto
your right shoulder, the gusts rebounding off the mountain walls to
knock you out of your rhythm. The top is the border…. and what a
disappointment! A few derelict buildings, some anti-Spanish graffiti but
not a sign, a flag or a post to mark the crossing between two great
European countries. The descent to Montelegre is straightforward, and
lunch stops abound in the fortified town, with its castle perched atop a
hill.
But take care for the afternoons ride! The Michelin Regional map series,
number 591, “Portugal Nord” has a tendency to not show roads or parts of
roads, for no apparent reason, even though those roads are there, paved
and open. The route to Chaves for cyclists desiring rural country peace
and quiet, is to go back through Montelegre the way you came in, right
at the roundabout and follow the signposts to Mexiedo, Gralhas, Solviera
and Meixide. At this point the map shows no route through to Soutelinho
and onto Chaves, but the road is there!. |
Approaching the deserted border post between
Spain and Portugal
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A friendly donkey in every field
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So sit back and enjoy the ride, through vineyards, rolling hills and
stunning 360-degree vistas. You may come across a donkey here, a farmer
there, but that is all to disturb the solitude. Chaves is a roman
town, with an old stone bridge straddling the Rio Tamega. Stay for £30
at the Hotel Trajano, and eat at one of the very traditional Portuguese
tavernas – there is generally no menu on display. But ask for Bacalhau,
the national fish dish, and you won’t go far wrong |
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The Roman bridge at Chaves
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Day Six - Sunday 18th March 2007
Chaves to Vila Real
The road to Vila Real is the Nacional 2 (N2). Cross the river and take the first
right onto this road. It was clearly once the major route south, but don’t
worry. The new motorway takes the bulk of the heavy traffic now, leaving this
road reasonably quiet. Stop at Pedras Salgadas and try your first Portuguese
coffee and cake in the Pastelleria next to the railway station. You will have
some climbing to do today as the road winds its way along the side of the Rio
Corgo. Another fast descent to finish the day brings you to the town of Vila
Real.
There are a couple of smaller hotel in the town square, but if you can, splash
out on the Hotel Mira Corgo (£45 to £70 depending on the season), for a room
with a spectacular view across the gorge on which the town is built.
Day Seven - Monday 19th March 2007
Vila Real to Lamego
This may be a shorter day in terms of mileage, but take your time.
You pass through the vine-rich Duoro Valley, cross the river at the
disappointingly bland Peso da Regua, and then climb through tiny
villages on the N2, almost deserted since the opening of the A24
motorway across the valley. You will see the new road perched on stilts
– an engineering miracle - as it leaps for one hillside to the next. It
is ugly in the extreme, but cyclists benefit by having the old road to
themselves.
Don’t take the N2 out of Vila Real. Instead, cross the river gorge
behind the Hotel Mira Corgo, and follow the M313 past the aerodrome,
which is signposted. You will have some spectacular views of the Serra
do Marao range before plunging down, under the motorway and into the
vineyards of the Duoro. Take care on the descent to the river – it is
long and fast but the temptation is great to look at the scenery rather
than the road! |
Young vines in the slopes of the Duoro Valley
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Lamego from the castle
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A word of warning: the old bridge across the river Duoro at Peso da
Regua was closed when I was there – possibly for repairs, but more
likely because it can no longer take the strain of 21st century traffic.
Police Officers were directing vehicles out of town for a 12km detour to
the next bridge. Smile, look pitifully, point to your laden bicycle, and
they will let you walk across, saving yourself some riding on a busy
road The Hotel Lamego is an excellent establishment, on the edge of
the town, providing bed and breakfast at £40 for two. Stroll into town
in the afternoon for afternoon cakes, a tour of the ancient cathedral,
and views of the valley from the castle.
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Day Eight - Tuesday 20th March 2007
Lamego to Viseu
Now here is a fact for anyone contemplating this tour. Central Portugal is
mountainous. Today reminded me that this is a route for experienced and fit
cycle tourists only. The N2 climbs out of Lamego, and continues climbing,
sometimes steadily, sometimes steeply, for the best part of 20 km. Although the
road is quiet, there were some road works when I was there, which meant dodging
fresh tarmac and the occasional JCB vehicle. The good news is, that when the new
surface is laid, it will be a great road to ride.
I descended to Castro Daire, a small town perched on a hillside, in very cold
conditions. This was March after all, and it’s worth remembering that even in
the sunshine, the air is cold at these heights (1200 meters today). Castro Daire
is set in a spectacular location on the steepest of hills, and is a great place
to stop for lunch and admire the views.
The afternoon ride continues uneventfully on the N2, arriving in the town of
Viseu. Again, there are a number of accommodation options, with the friendly, if
austere Hotel Grau Vasco winning the vote at £50 bed and breakfast.
Day Nine - Wednesday 21st March 2007
Viseu to Seia
When planning this route, I intended to complete the ride to Seia and the climb
of the Serra de Estrela to Covilha in one day. I am glad I changed my mind! The
total distance is 112 km, which ordinarily a fit cyclist should be able to do
without a problem, but the terrain is so harsh and the climb of the Estrela so
long and steep that my advice would be to split the ride into two days, as I
did.
That leaves a shortish ride today to Seia. The road climbs imperceptibly, with
the bulk of the Serra de Estrela constantly in sight ahead. There are some
sweeping downhill thrills, notably into Santar and out of Nelas (another great
coffee and cake experience).
In Seia, seek out the modern Hotel Eurosol – a steal at £38 a room, and with a
restaurant attached. Stock up on Bacalhau, there is a long climb ahead….
Day Ten - Thursday 22nd March 2007
Seia to Covilha (The Climb of the Torre)
Forget the Tourmalet, turn your nose up at the Ventoux, laugh at
Alpe d’Huez. The Torre of the Serra de Estrella in Portugal is one of
the great climbs of the cycling world. I know. I have done it. Just!
Start early and give yourself plenty of time. Hope for a windless day in
Seia – even then, it will be blowing a gale on the barren, desert-like
tops of the Torre. At an altitude of 2000 meters, the tower built
purposely on the peak is the highest point on mainland Portugal.
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Portugal from its highest point
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The last painful stretch of the climb to
Torre
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This climb is not for the faint-hearted. It rises at a gradient of
10% as soon as you leave the town of Seia, and continues in the same
brutal manner for 10 km until you reach the village of Sabugueiro. This
is a true mountain village, which has developed into a small tourist
haven, and is the last chance to get food and drink before the top of
the mountain. It is also the last chance to stay the night if you have
to, with a few Pensions dotted around. From there, the climb is
relentless, passing a barrage and skirting the edge of the mountain in a
series of gentle hairpins. Then the wind will hit you. Even on a mild
day in March, it was strong enough to blow me to a halt. Trying to start
pedalling again is not easy in bottom gear on such a gradient. I walked
a kilometre to catch my breath back. |
| Then comes the sight you have longed for. The “space station” white
bubbles that mark the top of the mountain, sit tantalisingly close. You
will pedal another 5 km in the wind, before taking a right turn for the
last stretch to the top. Do take this 1 km detour to the top – there is
a welcoming café and shop up there, as well as a 360-degree panorama of
Portugal. The descent to Covilha is of course, wonderful, but do take
care to concentrate on the road, and not the dramatic scenery! |
At the top of the Torre at last!
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Day Eleven - Friday 23rd March 2007
Rest Day in Covilha
The centrally-placed Hotel Sol Neve is recently refurbished and an ideal place
to spend a couple of nights to allow some contemplation of the climb you have
just completed.
Day Twelve - Saturday 24th March 2007
Covilha to Castelo Branco
Orange groves and spring blossom
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The N18 takes you to Fundao, whilst the A23 takes the motor traffic.
In Fundao, head for the road to Vale de Prazeres. It is a beautiful,
gentle climb through wooded hillside, with views of the Torre to remind
you where you have been. At the top, a hairpin turn begins the descent
to Alpedrinha, and for the first time on the tour, flat land can be seen
stretching out ahead.
Cycle along past groves of lemon, orange and tangerine trees, and in
spring, past the blossom of the apple and cherry trees.
And now the Michelin map lets us down again. The trusty N18 seems to
disappear, eaten up by the motorway. But, as before, the road is still
there, running alongside the A23 – and it is an empty strip of smooth
tarmac for you to enjoy alone. All you have to do is follow the signs
for the N18 Castelo Branco, right into the town centre.
The white castle is perched on the hillside, and the Best Western Hotel
D. Amelia is well worth the £50 |
Day Thirteen - Sunday 25th March 2007
Castelo Branco to Abrantes
This is the longest ride of the tour so far. Take the N18 out of town and ride
alongside the motorway until Sarnadas de Rodao. At this point, take a left turn
(it’s still the N18) to Vila Velha and Nisa. There follow a gorgeous descent to
the Rio Tejo, which is the river that flows into the Atlantic Ocean at Lisbon,
and you will meet it again later. For now, carry on a rolling and empty road to
Nisa, through a valley full of fig and orange trees, and the occasional spring
call of the cuckoo.
At Nisa, take the right turn in the town square, on to the N 364 to Gaviao.
After this road crosses the expressway of the IP 2, it becomes the N118 and is
quite busy. The terrain has changed again, with a flat, savannah-like plains
replacing the rolling countryside of this morning’s ride.
A series of tiny villages mark your return to the Rio Tejo. Cross the river on
the old bridge at Rossio, and climb 3 steep kilometres to the hilltop town of
Abrantes. Up and up the road goes, through the town until it can climb no more.
That is where the Best Western Tourismo Hotel stands. It was the first ever Best
Western hotel in Portugal and is certainly showing its age, but the views all
around are worth the stay.
Day Fourteen - Monday 26th March 2007
Abrantes to Santarem
There are two options for the ride to Santarem; either by the north or the south
of the river. The hotel manager at Abrantes recommended taking the quieter north
route, which proved a pleasant ride.
So, don’t go back through town down to the river, but rather, take the road to
the village of Rio do Moines, which is signposted. At the junction with the A23,
turn left across the motorway and head for Constancia. Keep on this small road,
past an air force base, to Vila Nova. There is no option here, other than to
endure 3 km on the very narrow and busy N 365. Take great care – the road
promises speed to the drivers who use it, but doesn’t have the facilities to
cope with that speed. To be honest, I felt it was dangerous, without any type of
shoulder for slower road users, but there is no option.
Once you reach Golega, the problems are past. The main road crosses to the south
of the river, but this route stays north side, and follows the N 365 all the way
to Santarem. The area is advertised as the “Route of the horses, bulls and
wines”, and sure enough, stables, bullrings and bodegas abound.
There are some reasonably priced hotels in Santarem, although I splashed out a
bit here, for a room with a view at the stunningly located Hotel Santarem on the
edge of town, and the edge of the hill!
Day Fifteen - Tuesday 27th March 2007
Santarem to Setubal
At this stage of the trip, it is worth considering how and when you want to
enter Lisbon.
For cyclists, crossing the Rio Tejo by either of the two bridges is not an
option. The new Millenium bridge is a motorway and the Ponte 25 de Abril is
restricted to motor traffic. The most straightforward route from Santarem is to
take the N3 and N1 north of the river. I didn’t find this too appealing, and
can’t say whether it’s suitable for cycling or not. I love to enter a city by
the sea if it is possible, and with Lisbon, it is. So I took two days to cycle
south to Setubal, and then back north to Barreiro, to catch the ferry across the
Tejo, straight into the centre of the capital.
This option means a long day in the saddle to Setubal – 120 km in all. The
prevailing wind is from the north, so take advantage of this, and the relatively
flat route, to build up some speed.
The fort of Santarem on the Rio Tejo
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Descend from Santarem and stop for a photo as you cross the Tejo.
Cycle through to Almeirim, and then don’t follow the signs direct to
Coruche, but rather, take the smaller, unmarked road through the
villages of Fazendas, Pacos dos Negros, Sao Jose da Lamarosa and on to
Coruche.
Coruche is a good-sized town by the Rio Sorraia, with cafes and
accommodation, if required.
The next stretch of the route is a bit of a cyclist’s nightmare. Cross
the river and take the N119 for a short and very busy 2 km, before
turning left onto the N 251 to Canha. Unfortunately this road is a
rutted mess. You will bounce along painfully for 18 km, but the
alternative N 119 is just too narrow and too full of trucks to be an
option. The road smooths out just before Canha, which is a quaint
village with a couple of cafe bars for drinks and food. Out of town take
the right fork to Perzides. Time trial the 15 km straight road to
Poceirao and then keep following the signs for Algerus and Setubal,
staying away from the N10.. |
The Hotel Isidro in Setubal is an average hotel, but its restaurant is a wild
and wonderful affair; huge, noisy, seemingly always busy, and serving huge
portions of tasty food. It was so good, I stayed two days to stock up
Day Sixteen - Wednesday 28th March 2007
Rest Day in Setubal
Day Seventeen - Thursday 29th March 2007
Setubal to Lisbon
| Climb out of Setubal on the N252 to Pinhal Novo. The climb is quite
long and road can be busy. Turn left in Pinhal Novo and head for Moita
and Barreiro – both are well signposted. The fast ferries to Lisbon
leave every half an hour from the ferry terminal. It costs about £1 with
your bike, and the approach across the river is spectacular. Once is
Lisbon, head for the central square, the Praca Commercial for the “I’ve
done it!” photo opportunity. Have a coffee at one of the pavement cafes
in Rua Augusta and bask in the glory and memories of a wonderful 1000 km
through Central Portugal |
Arriving in Lisbon
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The vast Praca Commercial at the heart of Lisbon |
Make sure you get a ride on a Lisbon tram... |
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