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November is an excellent time to cycle in India. Very little chance of
rain, the air is clear and the temperature a pleasant 25 degrees. You
will also be able to experience the colourful and noisy Hindu New Year.
Diwhali is celebrated with lights and fireworks, sweets and presents in
the course of this month and is well worth seeing.
Whilst back roads are unpredictable, the National Highway 8 from Mumbai
to Delhi is in the main, a smooth broad tarmaced road and through the
Aravalis Hills in Rajasthan, is also very picturesque. If you want to stray
onto minor roads, it is best to ask locals first whether they are passable,
particularly just after the monsoon.
The amount of traffic requires concentration all the time, but don't be
put off cycling here because of that. The general rule is, the bigger the
vehicle, the greater priority it has on the road. That means, buses, trucks,
jeeps, cars rickshaws, motorcycles, bicycles, people, in that order. Conform
to that principle and you will be OK.
Every town in the areas of Gujharat and Rajasthan has a wide variety of
accommodation to suit every budget. In Rajasthan I found the State-run guest
houses cheap, clean and comfortable. They are well-advertised on the side of
the roads. However, I would recommend that you also stretch your budget to
stay in some heritage hotels and converted Havelis if you can. They have
character at a price that doesn't always break the bank. (20 US Dollars will
get you a single room).
Be prepared for endless attention wherever you go, both as a westerner,
but particularly as a cyclist. A great deal of patience is often required.
It is worth insisting at hotels that your bike stays in your room; otherwise
in the morning you will find gear levers altered, pumps removed for
inspection, speedometer changed etc, as eager staff "try things out".
Food is easy to obtain on the road; water may be more of a problem. I
carried and used chlorine tablets along with neutralising tablets, even
where I bought bottled water, as "recycling" old bottles with unpurified
water is not unheard of, especially at some of the smaller more remote
village stalls. One bad dose of water can wipe out your trip completely, so
even brushing your teeth should be done with bottled water.
Finally, cycling in India is hard. Not just the roads, but the constant
attention can wear you down. I rewarded myself in the bigger towns with a
more comfortable hotel where I could get proper rest and wash away some of
the dust and dirt which eventually becomes ingrained in everything you have.
But if you can overcome the difficult parts then a cycling trip in this
country can be a very worthwhile and rewarding experience. |
